Tokyo Travel Guide
A guide for the overwhelmed first-timer in Tokyo with where to eat, sleep and get pleasantly lost.
For most of us, a holiday to Japan is a once in a lifetime holiday. You don’t just pop there—you plan it meticulously and want to soak up every moment. The pressure of the ‘dream trip’ gave me serious planning procrastination and despite usually being organised to a fault, I was overwhelmed at where to even start booking (maybe that’s how you’ve found this Substack). After our time in Tokyo, I can confidently say the pressure was totally unnecessary. Everyone will tell you that you need to book restaurants far in advance but I promise you’ll eat well everywhere and the best meal you have will probably be the one you stumble into.
There are few places left that feel genuinely unlike anywhere else and being somewhere this culturally distinct creates many moments of awe every day. The people are kind, everything runs on time and the food is fantastic everywhere. So, firstly… don’t panic. Your No.1 job is to walk around and find joy in the everyday stuff. The vending machines are cool. The trains are fun. All the restaurants give you a little basket so your bag never touches the floor. Just expect to log 15-20k steps a day and say ‘wow’ a lot.
This isn’t a full itinerary, just the spots I’d hate for you to miss. And I’ve suggested a few neighbourhoods so you can really lean in to going for a walk and planning on getting lost…
Food & Drink
Narukiyo - my favourite spot. The chef here, Yoshida, is a local legend. Lots of swearing, drinking, phallic drawings on the ceiling. Expect to drink loads of sake while listening to The Rolling Stones. We just asked for whatever the chef suggested and had small plates coming our way all evening. Amazing food. Immaculate vibes.
Toranomon Koushi - Amazing katsudon. I still dream about this lunch.
酒とてらだや 九段下 - a 100 year old house called Teradaya that will remain only open for a final year before redevelopment sadly swallows it. It’s a very traditional building and the waiters wear beautiful yukatas. No English menus so be bold and order a few small plates and the sushi platter, it’s beautifully presented with flowers and includes jellyfish… delicious!
Japan has amazing tiny bars. Many are in one room of a high rise, only seating six people max so you feel like you’re in someone’s living room. Smoking inside. Vinyl. Cocktails. Cash only. We really liked: Little Soul Cafe - A narrow room stacked floor to ceiling with vinyl. The old guy who runs this place is an absolute legend and played amazing music. Less than ten seats, so you’ll end up chatting to whoever’s next to you.
Neighbourhoods
Nakameiguro - Stroll the canal lined with cherry trees, then duck under the train tracks at Koukashita for vintage shops and tiny galleries. Lots of great coffee in this part of town. Some cool spots include: Epulor listening bar. Sidewalk Stand, Little Cloud Coffee, Onibus coffee (cute view of the trains going past) and stop by Travellers Factory for lovely stationary.
Shibuya - Walk around Yoyogi park, make a wish with a fortune amulet at Meiji Jingu, then make an appointment to browse some vintage Japanese movie posters (Max can bring you a selection from his archive if you take a look at their website), go visit the cool toilets from Perfect Days the Wim Wenders film and stop by Tamsan for Thai ice tea after.
Shimokitazawa - explore the vintage shops, then eat at Shimokita Mackerel Restaurant Sasuke Bar and go for drinks at Little Soul Cafe. Think this part of town is a bit like Shoreditch meets Camden 10 years ago.
Shop
You can read my guide to shopping in Japan for House & Garden (including the souvenirs no one else has), but here are some of my favourites…
Taiydo Seal - if you’re looking for a unique souvenir, get your own Hanko seal. In Japan it’s a tradition that people sign documents by stamping their family ‘hanko’ and you can create your own with a symbol or your initials. I got some made with a custom design for when I sign books!
Ozeki Gallery - in this beautiful boutique you can see Japanese rice paper lanterns designed by Isamu Noguchi for Akari. And even buy one to bring home (miraculously our cat hasn't scratched ours to pieces yet) then stop by Taniya Sanuki for udon after.
Kappabashi Street - this is an industrial street full of shops supplying restaurants. Head here to buy ceramics, steel utensils and knives. While you’re in Kappabashi don’t miss Tokyo Dime which sells the gelatine replicas of food you see outside restaurants. Got really obsessed with the bizarre artistry of these ‘meals’ while in Tokyo and bought way too many mini sushi fridge magnets.
Stay
Hoshinoyo Tokyo - A ryokan disguised as an office tower in the middle of the business district. Shoes off at the door, tatami in the lift and a rooftop onsen 17 floors up where you can soak under the open sky. The onsen is open through the night so you can arrive jet lagged and get straight in the warm water then wrap up in your yukata and return to bed with a glass of cold milk.
K5 Tokyo - A 1920s bank turned boutique hotel in Kabutocho, with a record player and vinyl in every room. The bar, deep-red library and cafe are all beautifully designed. My favourite touch was the beds being surrounded by indigo linen noren that pool on the floor. While you’re in the area visit Wineshop Human Nature a natural wine bar with great music and delicious cheese tucked into what used to be the neighbourhood’s unagi restaurant.
I’ll be sharing my full Japan itinerary very soon. And if you’ve been to any of these spots, let me know.
